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ZRX4ME last won the day on March 31

ZRX4ME had the most liked content!

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About ZRX4ME

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    Board Regular
  • Birthday 08/06/1952

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    St. Louis, Mo
  • Interests
    Auto and motocycle diagnosis and repair, music

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    Cel:(314)504-8652 Home:(314)432-3840
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  • Motorcycle(s)
    1981 Honda CB750K,2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100,2014 Suzuki V Strom1000
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  1. I ordered a helmet for my son at 2:00 p.m.--they wrote me back saying it'll be at my door Thursday.
  2. Here's one of my late-model favorites. Great "bass" run. This is the Ford/Mazda L-Series engine as used in many Mazda and Ford products. Many similarities to motorcycle inline 4-cylinder engines. Turn it UP!
  3. I watched all those old videos years ago. What's funny is when I went to Ranken('71-'73) those same videos were shown as part of the class.
  4. Try THIS: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html and THIS:http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Lubricating-Oil.html
  5. It's not the amount of knowledge that's the key... It's the ability to understand the info It's the relevance of the info to the issue at hand It's the practical application of the info It's the benefit to the consumer of that info I used to remind them at work of the Sy Simms(Owner of Men's Warehouse, clothier) commercial tagline: "An informed consumer is our best customer." My personal favorite is from Packard Motor Car(Luxury US cars from the '40s and earler(no, I wasnt there) "Good enough isnt good enough"
  6. Actually Todd, I dont need to be a chemist, lubrication specialist, or rocket scientist to properly maintain my vehicles. Yes, it helps that my occupation allowed me to deal with engines and lubrication issues multiple times every single day for 4+ decades(Goddamm I'm old!). And Ive visited oil manufacturers, oil suppliers, and have had seminars with both. Discussed oil-related issues with the various car manufacturer' technical service departments I've been associated with. All one has to do is be a responsible vehicle owner. Read and follow the owner's manual and/or service manual. In short--use common sense and do your homework. A large percentage of vehicle problems ive dealt with stemmed from owners not taking the time to read the owner's manual. Then Ive had many who read it but didnt understand what they were reading. The lazy that didnt think they should even have to read a manual. Those that read it and said.."F*ck that--too expensive/time-consuming/I dont have the tools/ it's not fun/you name the excuses. Clubs, blogs, websites are great--but not really necessary when you've had all the info you really needed the whole time. 25 different people(including you and I), ask a question and I believe you'd get 25 different answers. My answers are based on technical training and personal experience. In terms of motorcycle racing or competition lubrication needs, I'm not an authority. Then again, I dont need to be. I just need to do what I can to ensure reliability and dependability in what I work on. Bring your buddy into the mix--I'd be interested in hearing his thoughts. Like I originally said..discussing oil use is like discussing religion and politics. Same as discussing octane requirements. Everybody has an opinion. But, as always, you can argue theory, but not personal experience.
  7. Dont worry about the filter--it has an internal bypass. And the oil pump has a pressure relief valve. At this point dirty unfiltered oil is better than no oil. The real fun happens when the oil pump pickup screen clogs.Then you get to call 1-800-CRANKSHAFT
  8. Years ago we had a customer with a '97 Mazda 626 2.0 4-cylinder. 43K miles. Bought the car new from our dealership. She came in complaining of engine noise. I got the job, this thing sounded like a farmer's corn-threshing machine. Back in my bay I checked the oil, it was full. Took off the oil fill cap...and I couldnt see the cams or valve springs! Took off the valve cover...and sludge completely covered the valvetrain! My service adviser and the customer came out to my work area for me to show them. The advisor asks(right in front of me, mind you) "When was the last time you changed your oil?" And the customer replied..."My salesperson told me to make sure I change the oil at 3000 miles. And I did!! (She never changed it after that--40K miles on the same oil and filter). I dropped the pan and pressure washed the valvetrain, oil pan, and underside of the block. Filled with fresh oil and new filter, ran for 45 minutes, and changed it again. It was quiet as a mouse.
  9. Not true, Steve. The thicker oil doesnt flow as easily when cold, and the cam lobes--a high-load wear point the furthest from the oil pump--suffer the most 1st directly after startup on a cold engine. Oil viscosity requirements are also based on engine mechanical tolerances, and engines are set up much "tighter" than they were just a few years ago. I can remember when cars used straight 30 weight, then 20 weight, then they went to multi-viscosity 10w-40, then 10w-30, then 5w-20. Now many cars specify 0w-20 as the preferred oil weight. The engines are more efficient, retain compression longer, and dont suffer mechanically with the lighter-weight oils. Lighter weight oils allow for smaller and lighter electrical components( starter motor, battery, wiring) due to less mechanical resistance when cold.Easier for the oil to be squeezed out of the clutch plates when released, easier for transmission gear teeth dogs to engage when cold. A simple test will confirm this: Run 20w-50 in your engine in hot temps. Cold startup, pull in the clutch lever and engage 1st gear. Many bikes will "clunk" and the bike will lurch forward a bit as the thicker oil still tries to transmit power through the clutch. Then try the same thing using 10w-40 oil. The clunk and forward lurch will be less pronounced. Proven personally on my own 750 and many other bikes.
  10. Thanks, Todd. I USED to know the exact meaning of "W" in the viscosity index, but that was years ago. Now it's back in my memory banks. In most owners manuals there is a graph showing ambient air temperature ranges and the recommended oi viscosity for a particular range. As an example, my Suzuki shows 10w-30 for -4 to 86 degrees, 10w-40 and 10w-50 for -4 to 104, 15w-40 and 15w-50 for 6 to104, and 20w-40 and 20w-50 for 14 to 104 degrees F. I use 10w-40 and I'm covered. In my older bike, I used 20w-50 which was OK for the temperatures. But when I switched back to 10W-40 I noticed that it cranked faster cold, shifted easier, and the clutch action was far better.
  11. Well Todd...by that last statement I can certainly see where YOUR head is at...I'm flattered, for sure..but definitely not interested. Bahahahahahah
  12. Well, I dont use synth in my bikes, and when draining the Kawi(or Honda) oil I NEVER have seen "gunks" of any kind during the draining process.
  13. To your question concerning your manual not stating using Kawasaki oil, for example, the answer is obvious--look for the manufacturer's name on the container! If I'm in the area of BSC, I pick up some Suzi oil. My last Honda oil change I was on the Rock Road, stopped in at Donnelsen's and picked some Honda GN-4. My last ZRX oil change I was running west on I-44, stopped in at the Kawasaki dealer on the south outer road in Fenton, picked up some Kawi oil. The filters I order online 3 at a time. This isnt rocket science!
  14. 1st of all Todd...I dont dance, just ask my wife. As for your chart, yes, all my manuals have similar charts. My thinking is that if the oil designations match your machine's requirements then you should be good to go UNLESS you have a wet clutch and are attempting to use a friction-modifier oil for fuel economy as most cars now use. But...I do not know what the bike manufacturer adds or subtracts from the mix to make it a motorcycle-specific oil. I do not know if, for example, what Suzuki recommends specifically for their engines based on tolerances, wear characteristics, loads, etc. But I do know from my work experience that during a warranty engine repair if the manufacturer-supplied oil isnt used, the warranty claim will be denied. And Ive read numerous technical service bulletins outlining issues resulting from the use of different engine oils, transmission oils, and coolants. And yes, manufacturers make money selling maintenance items and fluids. And even in non-warranty work they would prefer we use what they supply. We didnt--we used oil in bulk for non-warranty work, but always in the recommended viscosities. But...I have never encountered a problem using what the manufacturer recommends. I can't say the same about using the bulk oil. I use what's recommended so I dont even have to question its use. I dont wonder if what I'm using will cause a problem, and I for sure dont worry about getting 200K miles out of my bikes. If there is any question, call your manufacturer's toll-free number and talk to their Customer Service Department. Or...you could just do what I said in the beginning of this thread and use whatever makes you happy. That's what I do! How's that for the Tuskaloosa Two-Step?
  15. Years ago I had to replace all the fiber clutch plates in a '88 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500. The owner worked at a local auto parts store and thought it would be a good idea to replace the oil with Mobil 1 car oil. Vulcan 1500= monstrous torque. Turned into a slip-o-matic with a simple oil change using the wrong lubricant. Like most people I try to save money anywhere I can. For me, motorcycle-related expenses are not those places. I ride for fun. Anything that detracts from that fun defeats the whole purpose of motorcycle ownership for me. So I wont agonize over every last cent trying to save a buck when it comes to what I put on or in my bikes. Yessir--I do shop around and if someone has, for example, Honda GN-4 or Suzuki Hi-Perf oil cheaper than someone else, I buy from them. No muss, no fuss..then I'm back to RIDING, and isnt that the main deal here? Another good one: At present I have my son's(new rider) SV650 back to new, waiting for brake pads and a battery to come in. In the meantime I have another SV650 in the garage for carburetor work, also waiting for parts. The airbox has a K&N airfilter in it which seals the case. This filter is severely warped, which isnt sealing the airbox, which allows dirty unfiltered air to enter the engine. Which defeats the whole purpose of the airfilter in the 1st place. I called the owner, who's bring me his like-new oem filter to replace the K&N. And so it goes....