GSXR55

Rotella T oil?

64 posts in this topic

Due for oil change on '16 gsxr 750.  Started googling and found numerous, credible posts that say that Shell Rotella T oil is effectively same as Suzuki perf oil (allegedly Shell makes the Suzuki oil).  Can anyone speak to that?  Got a gallon for $14 up the street whereas the Suzuki stuff is > double that and need to mail order or drive long way.  

 

The manual says use API SG SH SJ OR SL and JASO MA.  The Rotella is SM, which superceded SL for cars anyway and is JASO MA.  Only downside I could find (wiki) is that high phosphorus might damage the cat...  

 

Please advise and thanks!

 

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I use Rotella in all my bikes. I swap bikes like underwear though, so I don't guess I can speak to any long term problems.

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I've been running T6 for a few years now, no problems to report.

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I use Rotella and have not had any issues. I used the T6 in my 2013 zx6r and I now use the T4 in my sv650 and 748 twins. 

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I use what's called for so I don't even have to think about what to use. Discussing oil use is like discussing politics or religion-everybody has an opinion. Use what makes you happy.

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LOL I just had no idea you could use diesel engine oil in a sportbike.  You know I also found that Suzuki says you don't need to change the filter a second time until the fourth oil change or 11K.  I'm gonna go ahead and do now anyway.  

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The biggest thing to avoid is "friction modifiers".  Usually there's a star looking logo on the bottle.  These additives are great in the motor, but they play havoc with the clutch.  They reduce friction, and you kinda need that in the clutch :)

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Vehicle manufacturers use many reasons for their maintenance recommendations.  Many have not a single thing to do with reliability and dependability.

Two of these reasons:

 1) They are under pressure to keep owner maintenance costs down. For them this is also a selling point. Years ago Honda cars listed oil change intervals at 10,000 miles.

Think of the savings in parts and labor to the customer over 100,000 miles as opposed to changing oil and filter every 3000-5000 miles.  On the other side of this coin Honda never said what the condition of the engine would be in at 100,000 miles using this interval. And how long was the manufacturers warranty? Ive had engines apart whose owners used this extended oil change interval. It wasnt pretty. Sludge-o-Matic! Problems under warranty, they pay. After warranty, YOU pay.

2)  Environmental waste. Longer intervals, less waste oil to deal with.

 

Under warranty with a new vehicle, you bet I'd use the recommended oil and filter, and save  the parts receipts. You dont want to give the manufacturer any reason to deny warranty assistance($$) in the event of a problem. Have an aftermarket oil filter leak and eat an engine and the conversation goes something like this:

  Customer: " I just had my oil changed, and the filter leaked/came loose/popped a seam and now it the engine wont crank. It's under warranty".

  Dealer:   "Sorry, you have a Ji**y Lube oil filter, we can't cover that. You'll have to go to them."

   Seen this more than a few times. Just how much time and $$ did the customer save?

 

Unless  a filter was left loose, not enough oil was used,  or the drain plug sealing washer wasnt replaced and leaked Ive never seen engine damage from changing the oil too often.

  Most of the bikes use a wet clutch, that is, the clutch is in the engine assembly. I dont want clutch material-the normal result of wet clutch usage- residue floating in my oil.

 

As a tech I keep my mechanical things going as long as I can. And I practice what I preach, so here's what I do:

   My cars get oil and filter changes every 3K miles. All get Mazda oil filters and the recommended weight Valvoline oil. We didnt use Mazda oil at work either.

   My '81 Honda CB750K gets an oil  and filter change every 1K miles. Air-cooled engine, the bike sits for extended periods. 1k miles on that bike might be 2-4 years. Honda GN-4 10w-40 and oem Honda filter.

   2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100- Honda GN-4 or Kawasaki  equivalent. Oem Kawasaki filter. 2500-3K miles

   2014 Suzuki V Strom1000- Changed at 600 miles(1st oil change) with Suzuki 10w-40 oil and oem filter.  Next oil change will be at 3K miles, then every 3K miles from that point on.

    The Honda and ZRX cams lobes--the highest point of engine wear are like new, and the valves stay in adjustment. Inside of both engines are spotless.

 Are my regimens excessive? Perhaps. Is it more expensive to follow this schedule? Sure is. Do I care? NOT AT ALL. These are my vehicles, and based on my job experience I'll do what I need to keep them as mechanically perfect as I can. Maintenance is always less expensive and easier to deal with than repair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Personally, I just go with the Johnson's Baby Oil. Not the stuff with Aloe in it though, that's bad for the clutch. :)

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I use the same as JJ (I think). It's the Mobil1 10W40 full synth racing 4T in the motorcycle section at Walmart. I use this oil for 2 reasons:

 

1) It matches the recommended standards/specs listed in my service manual.

2) I get a discount at Walmart and it's convenient.

 

Having said that, there are very many oils out there that match the specs in my manual and I would have no problem using any of them. If the Rotella meets the specs/standards listed in my service manual (which I believe it does) I would be fine using that as well and to be honest, it's cheaper than the Mobil1 and is also available at Walmart so I probably should be using it instead. But, I'll probably continue to fill my shopping cart with whatever Mobil1 bottles are sitting on the shelf like I always do because I am old and will forget this conversation by the time I go back. :)

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Haha, just walked out the the garage and what do I see on the shelf?

 

tmp_29458-20170420_155607212226675.jpg

 

Can't remember what I used that in. Pretty sure it wasn't the street bikes. I think I was using it in the dirt bike before I got rid of it.

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Thanks.  This is much better than politics or religion!!!  Got the oil and filter will arrive tomorrow.  I was seeing some oils for $80 a gallon and I went into over-analysis mode, which I do from time to time (always!)  the Nighthawk is due also so will kill 2 birds while I'm at it.

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Did you order the Shell Rotella T???

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Advance auto parts...

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huh?

 

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2 hours ago, jjester said:

Did you order the Shell Rotella T???

Ask a simple question, get a simple answer.  It just didn't answer the question.  LOL

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GSXR.. in your opening post you said you bought a gallon of Rotella. Then why ask for assurance if you already bought the oil? Why buy the oil if there was a doubt in your mind if you should use it? Is the lower price the main draw here? If you use it without a problem more power to you! Other's good experience may or may not mean it'll work out for you. Following the manufacturer's recommendations removes doubt. But use whatever makes YOU happy no matter what others(myself included) say.

 

 

 

 

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I think he's asking for verification that SM does in fact supersede SL in which case it would in fact meet his manufacturer's specifications. From what I've read I believe that it would but I'm not an expert in this area so don't take my word for it. If it doesn't I would be more than willing to buy that gallon from him for half price. :)

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I actually had purchased the oil via internet for pickup at store.  If it hadn't been ok for bike I'd have used in car.   I started to have concerns because some of the SM spec oils are energy conserving and Suzuki says no go to that.  Rotella does not have that designation.  

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Years ago I had to replace all the fiber clutch plates in a '88 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500.

The owner worked at a local auto parts store and thought it would be a good idea to replace the oil with Mobil 1 car oil.

Vulcan 1500= monstrous torque. Turned into a slip-o-matic with a simple oil change using the wrong lubricant.

Like most people I try to save money anywhere I can. For me, motorcycle-related expenses are not those places.

I ride for fun. Anything that detracts from that fun defeats the whole purpose of motorcycle ownership for me. So I wont agonize over every last cent trying to save a buck when it comes to what I put on or in my bikes. Yessir--I do shop around and if someone has, for example, Honda GN-4 or Suzuki Hi-Perf oil cheaper than someone else, I buy from them. No muss, no fuss..then I'm back to RIDING, and isnt that the main deal here?

 

Another good one: At present I have my son's(new rider) SV650 back to new, waiting for brake pads and a battery to come in. In the meantime I have another SV650 in the garage for carburetor work, also waiting for parts. The airbox has a K&N airfilter in it which seals the case. This filter is severely warped, which isnt sealing the airbox, which allows dirty unfiltered air to enter the engine. Which defeats the whole purpose of the airfilter in the 1st place. I called the owner, who's bring me his like-new oem filter to replace the K&N.

  And so it goes....

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So Terry, I have been trying to coax this out of you but you've been dancing around it. :) I think everyone here wants to use the manufacture's recommended oil. The question is, how do they know if they are using the manufacturer's recommended oil? In the service manual for any of my bikes they don't tell you specifically use Motul 10W40 type XXX motorcycle oil for example. The manual tells you what type (standard) and viscosity to use. Here's the excerpt for my ZX10R:

 

oil.png.c25dfaf4d48a61d73c23e06a485577cf.png

 

As mentioned previously, the Rotella T 10W-40 is SM with JASO MA which matches the recommendations in the chart above. So this particular oil is in fact what my manufacturer recommends for my bike. Is this incorrect? And of course before I started using the Mobil1 Motorcycle Racing 4T 10W-40 in my bike I checked the type codes and verified they matched the specifications in that chart in my manual. As far as I can tell, that's really the only way to tell if you are using the manufacturer's recommended oil. Yes? No?

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If ida found the Suzuki oil on Amazon Prime I would not have looked further.  Started looking for alternatives and it took on a life of its own...  I won't ask about the wisdom of ordering a Brembo knock-off master cylinder from Chi-Na...  Slip-o-matic clutch is one thing but Flintstone brakes not so much...   

 

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1st of all Todd...I dont dance, just ask my wife.

 

 As for your chart, yes, all my manuals have similar charts. 

My thinking is that if the oil designations match your machine's requirements then you should be good to go UNLESS you have a wet clutch and are attempting to use a friction-modifier oil for fuel economy as most cars now use.

But...I do not know what the bike manufacturer adds or subtracts from the mix to make it a motorcycle-specific oil. I do not know if, for example, what Suzuki recommends specifically for their engines based on tolerances, wear characteristics, loads, etc. But I do know from my work experience that during a warranty engine repair if the manufacturer-supplied oil isnt used, the warranty claim will be denied. And Ive read numerous technical service bulletins outlining issues resulting from the use of different engine oils, transmission oils, and coolants.

And yes, manufacturers make money selling maintenance items and fluids. And even in non-warranty work they would prefer we use what they supply. We didnt--we used oil in bulk for non-warranty work, but always in the recommended viscosities.

But...I have never encountered a problem using what the manufacturer recommends. I can't say the same about using the bulk oil.

I use what's recommended so I dont even have to question its use. I dont wonder if what I'm using will cause a problem, and I for sure dont worry about getting 200K miles out of my bikes.

 If there is any question, call your manufacturer's toll-free number and talk to their Customer Service Department.

Or...you could just do what I said in the beginning of this thread and use whatever makes you happy. That's what I do!

 

How's that for the Tuskaloosa Two-Step?

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